Basic sewing techniques

        Clothes are connected by different seam together, it is to rely on machines to complete. Because of the scope of application of different clothing styles, so when sewing various seam connection method and seam width is different, sewing parts add up to the finished garment size plays an important role. First, the flat seams of the basic method, also known as flat seam seam, the machine seam is the most basic, the most widely used of a seam. Flat seam widely used jacket shoulder seam, side seam, inside and outside of the sleeve seam, side seam pants, and many other parts of the crotch seam, shown in Figure 5-3. Flat seam when two pieces of fabric relatively positive, aligned vertically, leaving 1cm seam sewn back to the beginning and end down with the needle thread to prevent raveling, and pay attention to the upper and lower pieces of cloth of neat. Sewing is completed, the backward side of said seam sew; seam, said seam apart separate ironing. Flat seam requires stitches straight, sew the same width, the fabric smooth. Second, the basic method of crimping Juan seam side seam is a way to do it twice folded fabric edge roll, Ji has sewn seam type. Crimping points inside and outside. In addition, there are crimping roll and roll broadside narrow points. Broadside used for jacket cuffs, hem bottom and pants leg opening edge and the like; narrow circle is used for men's shirts swing bottom. Figure 5-4. Car crimping edges to sew the fabric off the back buckle 0.5cm, and then roll off 1cm, along the edge of the first hemming sewing 0.1cm open wire. When sewing Ji, left hand on the front, middle finger, ring finger on the curl, press and hold the curling, curling the index finger help turn hemming within inside flip, straighten out; after right hand, pinch off required turn the bottom; thumb on the remaining four fingers next to bottom gradually roll into a cylinder shape, seam side back slightly taut. If the volume broadside right thumb can be folded at the bottom of the pinch, serves as curling. Requirements fold flat, control agreement, Ji-line straight, not twisted at a seam. Third, the basic method of wrapping wrapped sewing a seam to wrap another layer selvage selvage and sewn in the seam. Ji twice a seam, depending on the package after sewing Ji revealed at the front hem stitch, sew the seam and the pressure within the inner bag points outsourced to external pressure. As shown in Figure 5-5. (A) outsourcing seam (1) the two fabric edges cut Qi, negative and negative relative overlap, the upper material is wrapped up the name of the lower side of the fabric folded 0.8cm encase the upper fabric. (2) Squeeze the bag turn parts of the presser foot, turn the package seam is located inside edges 0.1 ~ 0.2cm seam Ji at the first line, Ji prison border bristles, as 5-5 (a) below. (3) Then separate layers of fabric, this time to just a good seam sew Ji original anti suppress the lower fabric upper fabric, so the flash package in the inside, in addition to the fabric surface when exposed surface of the first line bottom line. (4) The inverted seam split together, stroking lower tight cloth, her left hand, pressed by the presser foot package crease along the spigot at a pressure of about 0.2cm Ji second track line, as shown in Figure 5-5 (b ) Fig. Packet seam (b) (1) cut two pieces of fabric edges together, positive and relatively positive overlap, the lower side of the fabric folded upward 0.8cm wrap the upper fabric, along the border were sewn in Figure 5-6 (a). (2) open the upper fabric, so face up from about 0.6cm seam sewn at the open air, fixed seam allowance, sew the fabric behind the front Ji exposed only a trace, as shown in Figure 5-6 (b). (3) the requirements of the parcel seam. To discount neat seam, flat service; parcel first line must be straight, uniform width; when Ji second track line, because wrapped seam in the fabric reverse, not tainted Ji phenomenon, in the seam allowance to pay attention to fabric smoothed, or twisted chain stitch to prevent fabric injustice, only the mouth to be tidy. Fourth, the basic method come and come and sew seam stitch, also known anyway, cheese joints, is a kind of fabric and then sew the method being anti-stitch. Positive no bright line, opposite no edges, used for blouses, children's clothing stitched shoulder seam and swing dress sleeves. Sewing step come: (1) the two pieces of fabric with the reverse side opposite relative overlap, align the seam side edge seam allowance of about 0.3cm seam line first, as shown in Figure 5-7 (a). (2) would have been sewn Ji-Link rear border trim fabric over so that the front and the front folded buckle folder together in the sandwich, and then along the border of about 0.6cm wide slit Ji Second Line Road, 5-7 (b). (3) the sewn cloth open, fold to the side seam together, buckle down, do not reveal the stitch side of the fabric. Fifth, the basic method of lapped seam seam take steps: (1) the upper and lower back of the fabric laminated fabrics relatively positive, align the seam, leaving about 0.7cm seam along the border, do first flat seam, as 5- 8 (a). (2) the lower fabric flip up the fabric edge inward fold of about 0.7cm hem, cover stitch Ji in the first line, so that beyond about 0.2cm, and on the flip of a hemming press Ji second Daozhi mouth, about 0.2cm, as shown in Figure 5-8 (b) below. Lap stitching to straight, the second seam Ji line must cover the first seam Ji line, the invisible hemming first stitch and seam.